Followers
of this blog may, after some 115 posts containing bird photos, be surprised to find
no bird photos in this post, not one. However, Tirari Desert - Part 2 will
contain bird photos from the area covered by Part 1.
On our
return trip from the Top End we came south from the Savannah Way (Gulf Country)
in far NW Queensland down through Lawn Hill, Mt Isa, Boulia, Birdsville and
then down the Birdsville Track to Marree. We continued south down the west side of the
Flinders Ranges skirting the bottom end of the Flinders before finally heading
East and home to Eastern Victoria. The north-south section of this route follows
a direct line from the Gulf of Carpentaria to Spencer Gulf in South Australia.
The 517km Birdsville
Track runs north-south and passes through the Sturt Stoney Desert at the top end,
the Strzelecki Desert and along the Eastern edge of the Tirari Desert. The
Track crosses flood plains, gibber plains, sand dune country and a low range of
hills just north of Mungerannie (a cattle station homestead offering camping
and fuel etc) and further south, the famous Cooper Creek. The Track is a good
earth road these days however it can be closed and impassable after even
relatively small amounts of rain.
Along the
Birdsville Track we did a short side trip up the southern end of the Inside
Track to look at the bottom end of the Goyder Lagoon - a huge floodplain of the
Diamantina River. The Inside Track crosses an elevated gibber plain before
abruptly dropping down to the flood plain where access via the track ended in
flooded lignum – the Inside Track is often closed due to flooding. The Goyder Lagoon
is a designated Important Bird Area (IBA) – for IBA details see:
|
Crossing a gibber plain on the Inside Track heading to the south end of the
Goyder Lagoon. |
The Goyder
Lagoon when flooded, as it is now, is more or less inaccessible, so after a
good look around we headed back to the Birdsville Track.
|
End of
the road – Goyder Lagoon – the track continues north through the lignum. |
While our
main objective was to head home, we planned to spend a few days in the Tirari
Desert on our way down the Birdsville Track. Many will not have heard of the
Tirari Desert or know much about it, so keep reading and you will soon find
out.
The
following photo is from Google Maps with satellite images turned on. It shows a
big-picture image of the area where the Tirari Desert is located. Down the
right hand side (East side) of the photo, the Birdsville Track can be seen in
yellow. The Warburton Creek snakes across the top middle half of the image
joining the Macumba River from the west before turning south to enter the top
end of Kati Thanda (Lake Eyre North) which can be seen at the bottom left half
of the image. The Tirari Desert is
mostly a sand dune desert bounded by the Birdsville Track in the East (the
Strzelecki Desert lies to the East of the Birdsville Track), Simpson Desert to
the North and Kati Thanda on the West side. Another feature visible in the
photo are the multitude of ephemeral lakes and the so called parallel sand
dunes.
The Lake
Eyre Basin is a truly vast and awesome area, with a huge variety of magnificent
landscapes and a complex flora and fauna adapted to living in harsh desert
environments. The Lake Eyre Basin, and more widely Central Australia, like
infinity, is truly hard - even impossible, for the human mind to encompass. I
often spend time viewing these areas via the satellite images on Google Maps to
try and get a feel for the larger landscape that I plan to visit or that I have
already experienced on our travels at ground level. I have included just a few
snapshots (from space) of the area in and around the Tirari Desert. A few of
the images remind me of some John Olsen paintings!
|
The
range of hills just north of Mungerannie. |
We camped
on Warburton Creek on Cowarie Station and on Kalamurina Sanctuary in the Tirari
Desert. The access road/track to Cowarie and Kalamurina heads NW from the
Birdsville Track just north of Mungerannie.
|
Our
camp site on Cowarie Station lies near the centre of this photo – the
watercourse is Warburton Creek (formed upstream by the joining of Eyre Creek
and the Diamantina River). |
|
The
Warburton River at Cowarie Station camping area. There was a good flow heading
to Lake Eyre. |
As for many of the Eyre
Basin water courses the fringing vegetation is dominated by Coolabah (Eucalyptus coolabah) and Tangled
Lignum (Muehlenbeckia florulenta). There are very
few larger trees beyond the riparian strip so there is naturally a
concentration of bird and other animal species along water courses. The old Coolabahs
provide much needed nesting opportunities in a desert with few trees.
|
Sand
dunes dominate the Tirari Desert. |
The origin
of the sand dunes is fascinating. Floods wash sand, silt and clay down from the
vast catchment area (which extends from South Australia into the Northern
Territory and Queensland) into Lake Eyre. When the Lake dries out strong winds
blow the sediments out of the Lake bed into the surrounding country where dunes
are formed. If this was not the case Lake Eyre would have filled with sediment
thousands of years ago.
Note: The
wind can be very strong and persistent across much of outback South Australia.
The old saying “the crows fly backwards in South Australia” is well earned.
|
Warburton Creek meanders across what was probably once the bed of a Pleistocene
mega-lake named Lake Dieri after the tribal name of Aborigines that once lived around
Lake Eyre. |
The
Warburton’s course has been shaped by drifting sand dunes and other less
discernable geomorphic features, ancient processes and a very long history - though
relatively recent in terms of the geological time scale.
|
A
sweeping bend of the Warburton closer to its discharge into Lake Eyre North. |
|
In
flat country, drainage lines become complex often with multiple channels and
floods create large areas of water as the creeks cannot contain the flow. |
|
The
main course of the Warburton has many small erosion lines draining adjacent
country and forming an organic growth like pattern which is only apparent from
the air. |
|
Parallel
sand dunes extend like fingers towards Warburton Creek. |
In an
endless combination of water and wind shaping the landscape, the fingers of
sand dunes encroaching on Warburton Creek from the South will be swept away and
returned to Lake Eyre where the sand will again be blown out during the next
big dry.
Droughts,
floods and wind are major forces shaping the Tirari and other Lakes Eyre Basin
deserts. Fortunately the area had received well above average rains before we
arrived and the desert was blooming.
From
Cowarie Station we headed to Kalamurina Sanctuary where, by prior arrangement
with the Managers, we camped for a couple of days on Warburton Creek. For more
information on Kalamurina see the Australian Wildlife Conservancy web site
here:
|
Entry
gate to Kalamurina Sanctuary located on the Eastern boundary in a swale just
short of one of thousands of sand dunes. |
|
Wildflowers
blooming in the sand country adjacent to Warburton Creek, Kalamurina, Tirari
Desert. |
|
The Sandhill
Canegrass (Zygochloa paradoxa) was
also flourishing in the wet conditions. The grass is important Eyrean Grasswren
habitat. |
We were
fortunate to visit this area during a boom time. During prolonged droughts,
which are frequent here (30-40% of the time), the Warburton would have been dry
and the surrounding country would have been less attractive with a meagre bird
species presence. Huge dust storms when the winds get up are a real possibility
and another reason not to visit during droughts.
The next
post Tirari Desert - Part 2 will include some photos of birds captured along Warburton
Creek.